I think it only makes sense to start off with the most unexpected portion of our stay in Sofia, and that is my visit to the emergency room.

Don’t worry. I’m still alive, or else I couldn’t be writing this.

For the past few days, I have been having issues with my throat. It feels like something may be lodged in there, and at times, I am having trouble breathing. I’ve ordered a lot of fish in the past week and my deboning skills are non-existent. I start to think an ol’ fish bone could be the culprit, but really I have no idea.

In Sofia, it is getting a worse, so I decide to try and schedule a doctor’s appointment. I scour the Google for an English-speaking doctor or hospital, and decide to call Tsaritsa Yoanna. This hospital was on the US and UK embassy list for doctors who spoke English. After some back and forth on the phone, I eventually end up speaking with someone in English.

I explain that there may be something stuck in my throat and I am having issues breathing. The person on the other end, who I am assuming is a nurse, tells me that this could be very serious and he recommends that I go to their ER building to get it checked out. Even before this point, I knew my throat issue had the potential of being something serious, so I am happy to go somewhere and fix it once and for all.

Field Trip! I tell Kristin that she doesn’t need to join me, since I have no idea how long I’ll be. I grab my phone and head out the door for a 15-minute walk to the hospital. The weather this time of year in Sofia is perfect. Jeans and a T-shirt during the day and a light coat at night. Fall is starting to make an appearance.

Bulgarian Hospital. Can’t you tell by the name?

I arrive at the hospital and realize there are multiple buildings. I check out a map of the complex and nothing is in English. The map shows 12 different buildings and through process of elimination, I choose the only building with a symbol on it. Also, it had a ramp for ambulances, so that made it easy. First step complete. I found the building.

Tsaritsa Yoanna Map. A bit overwhelming.

I walk in and look around. There are a few people seated in chairs, evidently waiting for the doctor. I head towards a nurse behind a counter in an attempt to check in. This woman speaks zero English and just as I am about to whip out Google Translate, the same person I spoke to on the phone walks by and relays my info. Success!

At this point, I was thinking I should have hired someone to be my translator for the day, but it’s too late now.

At the counter, they take my passport, write down my information and direct me to take a seat in the waiting area. I did a little research on the cost of ER visits in Bulgaria before I arrived, and the only thing I could find is that people noted it was inexpensive. I’m only sitting for about 5 minutes before I am directed back into a room to see the doctor. There are definitely other people that have been waiting longer than me, but I don’t protest.

The door leading to the exam rooms. No idea what any of these signs say.

I again am prepared with my translation app and tell the doctor that I am having issues breathing and it feels like something is stuck in my throat. She grabs some small mirrors and starts examining my throat as I recite my “aaahs,” “ooohs,” and “eeehs.” Sixty seconds go by, and then through broken English she explains that I have an infection and she will prescribe me some medicine.

Through some more confusion, I get directed back to the nurse at the counter where she hands me the bill for my visit. Fun fact, this hospital only takes cash. She points to the “60” on the bill and then directs me to the ATM across the room. That means my ER visit cost a whopping $34.79 (60 Lev). Once I pay, I am directed back to the doctor where I get my written prescription. This is another 10 minute ordeal as I try and figure out what I am being prescribed and when to take these 3 different prescriptions.

Hospital ATM… Good thing I get reimbursed for all ATM fees. Thanks Charles Schwab!

I leave the hospital thanking the doctor and am feeling optimistic that I’ll be healthy in no time. I stop at the pharmacy on the way home and the pharmacist gives me a boat load of pills. I ask her if my prescription says what is wrong with my throat and she tells me I have a “bad infection.” I guess that is about as precise as we are going to get.

I get back to the Airbnb and Kristin and I research my drugs. We find out that I have been prescribed all homeopathic medicine. Basically, I have a bunch of vitamins now. Better than nothing?

I almost forgot to mention that this ER visit falls on an important date; Kristin and I’s 3-year wedding anniversary. What an eventful day!

The next few days, I spend in bed watching movies, while Kristin binge-watches RuPaul’s Drag Race. Most of the films I watched had a theme around being held captive or having cabin fever, so at least I could relate. Don’t worry though, we did explore Sofia, although not as much as we previously planned.

This post is already a little long so I am going to take you on a photo tour of our Sofia highlights.

These bracelets tied to the tree are called Martenitsas and they relate to the tradition of “Baba Marta” (Grandma March). This is an interesting tradition to explain. Martenitsas are given to friends and family on March 1st which is Baba Marta Day. You are supposed to wear the bracelet until you see a stork or a blossoming tree. Once you see one of these things, you then put the bracelet on a blossoming tree. Baba Marta also refers to a grumpy old woman who has mood swings, much like the moody spring weather in Sofia. By wearing the red and white bracelet you hope that winter will pass faster and spring will arrive. Maybe I’ll start wearing this bracelet instead of looking for the shadow of a groundhog.

Here is my name in Cyrillic (bottom one, not top). This is alphabet is very prevalent in the last few countries we have visited.

This stop is part of our culture tour of Sofia. Nightmare fuel.

Why?

After a quick shot of rakia, we learn how to do the traditional Horo Dance which is performed at weddings and cultural events. Not sure who is getting married next, but this dance may make an appearance! A few steps forward and one step back in a curving line through the party.

This is a banitsa. Doesn’t look like much, does it? We’ve seen similar ones throughout the Balkans, normally filled with cheese (good) or meat (no thank you). Through the grapevine, we hear that Sofia has these filled with pumpkin. My inner white basic girl gets excited and we go to great lengths to acquire this delicacy. We find out that most shops sell out of the pastry by the afternoon, so we need to buy it early. We eventually get our hands on this gem and it is glorious. I stole this picture from the internet because we devoured our banitsa without taking a photo. This happens often.
Sidenote: for Christmas and New Year’s Bulgarians put charms and fortunes in the banitsa.

Looking for a good place for some grub? Check out Rainbow Factory. Great food and even better dessert.

Roses are all the rage in Sofia. Everything is made out of roses. Rose jam (on spoon), rose lotion, rose tea (in bowl), rose soap, rose candy, and the list goes on.

This is Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. It’s big and awesome, but let’s talk about something more interesting… We have mentioned rakia and people believe it has healing powers (except on throat infections apparently). Our tour guide tells us rakia “is not for the taste, but for the memory it creates.” She also introduces us to a couple new breakfast beverages. First is Ayran. The drink is white and tastes like a watered down salted yogurt. The next is Boza, and I have never had anything like this. It’s a brown fermented wheat drink that has a thick texture, partially sweet and sour taste, and smells funny… but it’s not as bad as it sounds.

Why is this church bell in a tree? Well… I forgot. Luckily I did some research and figured out why. This bell was hanging from this same tree when liberation forces arrived in Sofia in 1878. The bell stays in the tree as a tribute to when the state of Bulgaria was re-established.

Next to the Central Bath Building, now a museum :(, we see locals filling up large water jugs at the mineral water stations. The water comes out warm and different stations show different compositions of the water. Pretty cool that you can just walk by and fill up your water bottle whenever you want.

Sofia mineral water composition. Hopefully nothing bad in there!

If you’ve been following along you’ll notice that Kristin makes an animal friend in every city.

Large parts of the center of Bulgaria’s capital lie above the ruins of an ancient Roman city. Often, new construction reveals ancient tombs and archeological sites.

There is a yellow brick road going from the royal residence to the National Assembly building. I’d say this is the world’s second most famous yellow brick road, but what do I know.

Greece is up next and it finally happens!!! Something I have been waiting for since we left. You’ll see.