Our first 7 days in Chile really drain us, so we decide to rent an apartment in Santiago for a couple nights to figure out our next move. And by figure out our next move, I mean sleep, watch movies, drink more of that delicious Carménère wine, and take some evening strolls. Super exciting right? We do get out and explore what the city has to offer, but it feels so good to recharge that body battery.

El Museo de la Memoria y los Derechos Humanos

The Museum of Memory and Human Rights is located across the street from Quinta Normal park, which is about a 10 minute metro ride from Plaza de Armas. This museum is dedicated to commemorate the victims of human rights violations during the Pinochet regime (1973 – 1990). I personally didn’t know much about the history of Chile and this museum was eye-opening.

Augusto Pinochet was appointed commander-in-chief of the Chilean Army in 1973. It’s debated how significant his role was in planning the infamous Chilean coup d’état that overthrew the democratically elected socialist government of President Salvador Allende. During this coup d’état, armed forces converged on the presidential palace in Plaza de Armas, demanding that Allende depose himself. With Allende refusing, the palace was eventually shelled and it is said that President Allende likely committed suicide.

Following the coup, Pinochet assumed power and thousands of people “disappeared,” meaning they were abducted, tortured, and killed. These were the people Pinochet viewed as a threat to his dictatorship. Walking through the museum I see similarities between Pinochet and what I learned in Cambodia about Pol Pot of the Khmer Rouge–murdering those who were a threat to the regime, stripping citizens of basic rights, and, most disturbing, the fact that neither dictator was brought to justice for his extreme human rights violations.

Pinochet passed away in December of 2006. His passing was celebrated in the streets of Santiago, but I also learn that there were thousands of supporters who mourned his death, which is hard for me to believe after walking past all of the faces of his victims.

Santiago Life

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Pisco: Chilean Brandy

Always on the search for exciting regional food and drink, one night we set out to find Pisco. Pisco is the national drink of Chile (although Peru also makes that claim). It is a spirit distilled from wine or fermented fruit juice. Considered a brandy, it’s known for distinct fruit and floral tones. I am not a brandy expert, but I can tell you that it is very pleasant to sip on.

This spirit is extremely versatile with it’s use in cocktails, with the Pisco Sour being the most well known. Peru and Chile also have an ongoing feud about who invented this delightful cocktail. Can’t we all just get along?

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Where Next?

Our two days in Santiago turn into five because we do not have our next destination planned out. Our hearts tell us we need to head south and experience Patagonia. We have a strong desire to go hiking, but we worry that we aren’t equipped to tackle a multiday through-hike in one of the wildest regions in the world.

For one, Kristin and I don’t really have hiking shoes. She is rocking some Nike running shoes and I have some Merrell minimalist running shoes. We have backpacks, but Kristin’s doesn’t have enough back support for hiking. Oh, and we also lack a tent, sleeping bags, headlamps, and some other basics that come in handy when hiking or camping. In fact, the only truly relevant gear we have is raincoats. This is a plus because the weather in Patagonia can be extremely unpredictable. And, sometimes, dangerous. What could go wrong?

Cue our wonderful friends Zac and Carly (featured in our Japan stories) who recently visited Patagonia. They provide us with an abundance of information on through-hikes and how to plan your stay in Torres Del Paine National Park. They swear up and down that this hike can be done with the basic gear that we have, and anything else, we can rent in the town that serves as the gateway to the park. Their stories, advice, and pictures are the tipping points and the decision is made to head south for one of the best experiences of our lives.