Next Stop: Buenos Aires

To get from El Chaltén to Buenos Aires, we first hop on a bus that takes us to Rio Gallegos. The trip takes around five hours and is relatively uneventful. Rio Gallegos is known for its strategic location as a transportation hub, connecting various parts of Patagonia. It serves as a gateway to popular destinations like El Calafate, El Chaltén, and the southern region of Tierra del Fuego. Many travelers pass through Rio Gallegos on their way to explore the stunning landscapes and natural wonders of Patagonia.

By the time we get to the bus station in Rio, it’s dark. We need to hit up an ATM in order to pay for a taxi ride to the airport. The ATM gods are not in our favor and after trying multiple machines, we are unable to take out any money. Luckily we empty our pockets and scrounge up just enough cash to pay and tip our taxi driver to bring us to the airport.

The “Airport”

Our bad. We make the mistake of assuming Rio Gallegos has a normal airport… you know flights coming in and out at regular intervals… food… people working… stuff like that. To our surprise, we walk into the the small airport and there isn’t a soul in sight. Granted we are at least 4 hours early, but there is literally nobody to be found. Kristin checks our flight status and it says “On Schedule.” I start to walk around and explore the building, trying to find someone who works here. I eventually find a security guard who tells me that check-in, security, gates, and the restaurant will open at midnight. Our flight leaves at 2 am. It’s currently 9 pm.

Hungry and with a with a couple hours to kill, we nap on the comfy airport floor.

Hernán and Ignacio (Nacho)

Our flight lands in Buenos Aires verrrry early in the morning. Our brains are mush and we do not have the mental capacity to navigate public transit, so we take a taxi to our AirBnb. Fun fact: this is the 50th AirBnb we have stayed at on our trip! Anyway, it’s too early to check in, but we are able to drop off our luggage and grab some breakfast. We chit chat with our host Hernán, who is an architect. He lives in the apartment with his son Ignacio in the vibrant neighborhood of San Telmo. Part of the reason they rent it out is because inflation is hammering the people of Argentina. More on that later. Before we head back out for breakfast, Hernán provides an introduction to mate [MAH-teh].

Mate

Hernán is drinking something out of a unique wooden cup. He asks if we have ever tried mate before, to which we reply, “No.” So, he hands us his cup and insists we try it, as it’s a very popular drink in Argentina. We each take a big ol’ swig out of his metal straw. What could go wrong? I am unsure if I am drinking tea, grass, or both. I guess we’ll just say it’s very earthy.

Mate is a traditional drink in Argentina, deeply ingrained in the country’s culture and social fabric. It is a type of herbal tea made from the leaves of the Yerba mate plant. Preparing mate involves using a hollowed-out gourd called a mate or sometimes a cuia, which serves as a vessel for the infusion. The gourd is typically filled with dried and ground yerba mate leaves. Traditionally, a metal straw called a bombilla is inserted into the mate to filter the infusion and allow for sipping.

To prepare mate, hot water (but not boiling) is poured into the gourd, allowing the yerba mate leaves to steep. It is customary to share mate with friends, family, or colleagues (and American tourists I guess), often passing the gourd around in a social setting. Fun!

The City

Buenos Aires, the capital city of Argentina, exudes a captivating European charm that sets it apart from other Latin American metropolises. With its grand boulevards, elegant architecture, and cosmopolitan ambiance, the city evokes a distinct European feel. Strolling through neighborhoods like Recoleta and Palermo, we encounter neoclassical buildings, tree-lined streets, and charming sidewalk cafes reminiscent of our time in Paris or Vienna. The influence of Italian, Spanish, and French immigrants is evident in the city’s cultural offerings, including opera houses, art galleries, and gourmet cuisine. Buenos Aires seamlessly blends Latin American vibrancy with a touch of European sophistication, creating a captivating and enchanting atmosphere.

Throw in some tango, and this city is ready to party.

La Recoleta Cemetery

La Recoleta Cemetery is an extraordinary landmark in Buenos Aires, renowned for its captivating beauty and historical significance. The cemetery is the final resting place for some of Argentina’s most prominent figures, including Eva Perón. Kristin and I spend hours wandering through the labyrinth with a map in our hand, passing by intricate sculptures and architectural details that reflect different eras and artistic styles. At one point, a violinist strikes up a morose melody, which really sets the mood you might expect for a cemetery stroll.

You Went to La Boca?!

The La Boca neighborhood in Buenos Aires is primarily known for its vibrant and colorful character, as well as its association with tango and football. This iconic district is famous for its brightly painted houses along Caminito Street, creating a picturesque scene that has become a symbol of Buenos Aires. You’ll find more than a handful of tango clubs in this area as well. We, however know it more for its association with football (AKA soccer). The neighborhood is home to the legendary Boca Juniors Football Club and the iconic La Bombonera stadium.

Disclaimer: We walked around the neighborhood during the day and had a great time. Later, when we got back to the AirBnb we were chatting it up with our host who was flabbergasted that we went to La Boca and didn’t get mugged. I’ve heard the crime rate is high in the neighborhood, especially after dark. Also, I wouldn’t stroll through wearing the jersey of an opposing team. Just common sense stuff.

Inflation

Hernán and Nacho are great hosts. One night during our stay, we go out for a beer with Hernán and we talk all things Argentina. Inflation is the first topic that comes up. The value of the Argentinian Peso is so volatile, that many times, when he gets his paycheck its almost worthless, so he tries to keep as many US dollars as possible. For example, a gallon of milk could shift from (we’ll use US Dollars for simplicity) $4/gallon to $28/gallon over the course of a single DAY.

He also tells us a story about the Feria de San Telmo Sunday Market, which is a popular artisan street market in his neighborhood. The vendors often get more than half of their income from these markets, which attract tourists from all over. Recently, officials started to put regulations on the market and require vendors to have permits and stall assignments. If you weren’t assigned a stall, then you were not licensed to sell anything. This didn’t sit well with some who had been selling their art in the same spot for over 12 years. When the next Sunday Market came along and the vendors didn’t obey the rules, police came to enforce them. The conflict escalated into a police riot and all-out mayhem.

As I sip my mate beer (had to at least try it), I think to myself, “This is why we travel, to meet interesting people like Hernán.”

Have You Ever Been Locked In a Religious Vegan Restaurant?

Kristin and I can now say, “yes” to this question. I still don’t quite understand. After we check out of Hernán’s place, we need to stay a few more days in Buenos Aires, so we book an apartment for two nights in the neighborhood of Palermo Soho. The neighborhood has great evening life and welcoming walking streets. For dinner one night, we are craving something healthy, something with veggies, so we find a vegan restaurant nearby. We arrive at the door, and it’s locked. Inside, I can see people dining, so Kristin knocks on the door. We’re greeted by a waiter who casually ushers us inside to a table. But then he locks the door behind us.

Nothing seems out of the ordinary, and we order our meals. I see a TV hanging on the wall, and it’s playing an infomercial-quality clip on a loop, and it’s styled like those fake news reports where the anchor is like “This just in, Spin-Mop wins the highest ranking award in cleaning products.” It’s in Spanish, but as I catch glimpses of the subtitles, I surmise the following, in this order:

• The topic of this video is that eating meat is murder
• Oh, it’s also about Jesus
• Oh my God, is this a … Cult? A Vegan Cult?
• We’re locked inside

No one else in the restaurant is reacting. The food is decent. We eat our meals and ask the waiter to unlock the door so we can be on our way. He asks us to wait just a minute…no just kidding he opens the door and we’re on our way.

Next Stop Bogotá?

After almost two weeks in Buenos Aires, Kristin and I agree that we need to make our next move. Peru and Colombia are on our shortlist, so we start to research logistics. We quickly realize that intercountry plane travel in South America is pricey, or maybe it’s just a busy time of year. We are talking almost $2,000 to get to Bogotá. Knowing we have the time, but not necessarily the money, we look at our trusty ol’ bus options. Surely there are some decent bus options?

The quickest bus from Buenos Aires to Bogota is 90+ hours.

Even though that bus ride would make for some stellar blog content, we decide four days of bus travel is too much for us. We throw all our plans out the window (like we had any to begin with), and start looking for cheap flights to any place we haven’t been, regardless of continent. Lo and behold, in walk two one-way tickets to Stockholm, Sweden for less than $800. Let’s go!