We wake up on day three at the Bitra Guesthouse and pack up the truck. My trusty partner, wife, and global chauffeur Kristin is in the drivers seat, direction Seljalandsfoss. I swear… I’ll try and learn how to drive a stick at some point on this trip… maybe. From the last post you may have caught on that if an Icelandic word has “foss” in it, that means it is waterfall time. This waterfall (Seljandsfoss) is 60 meters tall and visitors can even walk behind it through a cavern. Be prepared for some major mist from the crashing water and changing winds.

Seljalandsfoss isn’t the only waterfall in the area. Just down the path, Gljúfrabúi (Canyon Dweller) is hiding. This waterfall is partially hidden by a large cliff and to get the best view, you will need to get close by wading through the stream. There looks to be a trail as well, but ropes and no walking signs are posted to keep people on the main path.

I did not bring waterproof shoes or galoshes on this trip because of space constraints, but these are a necessity in Iceland. Even though I am a bit ill-prepared, I didn’t come this far to miss out on secret waterfalls. It’s only ice cold water right? I pop my shoes off, roll up my pants, and bravely make my way up the stream.

So, I maybe should have had a better game plan. The water was freezing. The rocks were slippery and sharp, and the stream was a bit deeper than I expected.

Passing by astonished strangers, I come upon the full glory of Gljúfrabúi. Forty meters of water plummeting down between two canyon walls. With mist flying around me, I think to myself about the consequences of frozen toes. I don’t know the rules of frost bite, and I need my toes for the rest of our travels, so I trudge back, slipping and sliding as I go.

Skógafoss is now our setting for the “Kristin’s Famous Leap” and yet another massive waterfall that you can walk right up to. This area is also the starting and ending point for hikers. There are day hikes and multi-day hikes you can do. I see some pretty haggard people walking down the trail as the gals and I trek up for some exploring.

After the 400+ steps up to the top of the falls, we follow a trail past the waterfall and explore a little. A small stream runs across our path due to the recent rain. Nothing major if you have waterproof shoes. Sandra and Michaela dance across the rocks to avoid the water and I take a leaping jump and clear the hazard.

We look, and Kristin is preparing to jump across the water as well. She backs up a bit and gets a running start. In true long jump style she leaps in the air, clearing the water. That’s the hard part right? Well… sticking the landing doesn’t go her way and she falls forward, tumbling to the ground with her blonde ponytails bouncing off the pebbles. Don’t worry folks, no world travelers were injured in the making of the below video.

I don’t know what day I am on anymore, but Reynisfjara is a sight to sea (yup, that’s a pun). It is a famous black sand beach that was formed way back when with lava flowing down the beach, cooling in the icy ocean water, and then breaking apart. From the beach you can also see massive basalt formations jutting out of the ocean. You may think that these are just part of nature and have been formed over years of volcanic activity, but you’re wrong.

These rock formations are another classic example of trolls not paying attention. You see, these rocks are actually trolls who were dragging a ship to shore. They were not keeping track of time and when the sun peeked it’s head over the horizon, they immediately turned to stone. Apparently that happens a bunch in Iceland.

Trolls turned to stone isn’t the only thing to see at the black sand beach. One thing everyone should watch out for are the infamous sneaker waves. This is a large, dangerous wave that appears without warning. Despite posted signs, tourists here regularly ignore warnings in attempts to get a photo, and at least two have been swept into the ocean to their death in the past two years. We see a few selfie-taking tourists get their shoes wet because of some small sneakers. Looking at the waves, once you are in that mess, it seems impossible to get out.

Now it’s time to talk about sheep. They’re everywhere and I can’t believe I haven’t mentioned them yet–in fact, Iceland has approximately 800,000 sheep and only 330,000 people. We notice that they are always in groups of three. The momma sheepies (ewes) typically give birth to two lambs and that’s why you will see trios scattered around the land. You’ll see them all the way up on an isolated mountainside or grazing right next to the road. These gals don’t stay out all year. In September they are rounded up and the lucky ones are stabled while the unlucky ones… well, you get the picture. While driving we saw an actual sheepdog herding sheep. It was awesome.

Oh man! I just remembered Icelandic horses too. I could go on about their flowing mane for days. Iceland is serious about their horses. Icelandic law prevents horses from being imported into the country and exported animals are not allowed to return, results in one of the purest horse breeds in the world.

Jökulsárlón is a large glacial lake at the edge of Vatnajökull National Park. It should be on everyone’s list to visit in Iceland. As we’re watching icebergs in the lagoon, we see one get grabbed by the water’s current and begin to float out to sea. Once in the sea, they wash back to shore clear as glass.

These crystal clear chunks of ice are strewn about the sand, earning this shore the name of Diamond Beach. I don’t believe this is advised, but Kristin breaks off a small chunk of ice and pops it in her mouth. No big deal, just eating some random ice that is 1,000 years old. What could go wrong?

Our inner historian takes over this whole trip and we constantly look up history and facts about Iceland. Someone may need to fact check this next one, but we are told that the Vikings named both Iceland and Greenland. Well, actually they mis-named them in order to trick their enemies. The hope was their enemies would to to ice-covered Greenland instead of following them to Iceland. Is this true? I don’t feel like googling it.

Westfjords are the Best Fjords

If your’e planning an Iceland trip, and you don’t think you have enough time to visit the Westfjords, then you need to re-evaluate your life. After hearing how amazing this area is, we cram in a couple long driving days to get here.

Westfjords gives us our first true hidden hot springs experience: Hellulaug. This natural hot tub is nestled in between the two lane highway and the ocean. We grab our swimsuits and walk down the rocky path to the spring. I get why hot springs are so popular in Iceland. We are adventuring in the cold, rain, and wind all day long, so we need a fix to warm our bones and the spring is it.

I know I just said I wanted to warm my bones, but the North Atlantic Ocean is mere steps away. Why wouldn’t I jump in that thing right? The ocean water isn’t as cold as I thought it would be, but my whole body tingles as I jump back into Hellulaug. I guess the moral of this story is that you need to find a secret hot spring. They are the best.

My Favorite Waterfall… Ever

Near the end of our trip, we are driving through the dirt roads of the Westfjords on our way to a waterfall. Since Michaela planned most of these stops, it allows me to be surprised when we pull up. We are not exactly sure where the waterfall is and as we are following the windy roads, we stop a few times, thinking we have found our destination. When we ACTUALLY find our stop, I go crazy.

We pull up in front of Dynjandi and are blown away. I jump out of the car and immediately start running to get as close as I can to this behemoth. On the way up to Dynjandi, you pass 6 smaller waterfalls. Dynjandi means ‘thunderous’ and standing next to the water, you get this full effect. You also get soaked, but that’s the price you pay for making love to a waterfall.

Sandra deploys the drone and the rest of the gals explore this scene from a movie.

Part of the reason we literally run up to the waterfall is because we are on a schedule. We are looking to relax a little bit and have a few adult beverages in Ísafjörður. This means we need to get into town before the Vínbúdin (my nemesis) closes. We get our pictures, pile back in the truck, and put our destination in the GPS. It tells us we have 1.5 hours of driving and will arrive five minutes before the Vínbúdin closes. That’s cutting it close.

Luckily, we have Sandra behind the wheel. All that’s between us and a glass of wine are one-lane dirt roads, intense inclines, hairpin turns, and zero visibility fog. All these are nothing for Sandra as she dominates the roads of Iceland and gets us to the Vínbúdin with plenty of time to spare. Inside we get a few things and I have a quick conversation with a random guy because he is singing the classic “Total Eclipse of the Heart” by Bonnie Tyler.

Ísafjörður: Good luck pronouncing that.

Michaela looks up options for dinner and we end up at a family owned and operated restaurant called Tjöruhúsið. This place does not have a menu. They only serve catch of the day. Inside there are long family-style tables, which allows you to get down and dirty with some new friends. We meet a guy who has ties to Blue Springs, Missouri (such a small world).

First course is soup and we all line up, buffet style, to pour ourselves a bowl. I go a little light on the soup in preparation to obliterate some fresh fish. The sides and main courses are then brought out in massive steaming pans and we line up once again. I put every single item on my plate (except salad) and go back to the table. The gals (if you didn’t know, this includes me) are all making those classic “this food is out of this world” noises.

I take a bite of some grilled fish that was most likely minding it’s business a few hours earlier, and realize this is the best meal of our world adventure so far. The chef brings out more fish and even brings Kristin to a poster to tell her exactly what kind of fish are in the pans for round two. I talk to the host for a bit and ask if he knows any classic Icelandic jokes (Thanks for the idea Josh). We go back and forth throughout the night as we tell each other jokes (most of them very dark).

Here is the first joke we heard from a bartender in Iceland. There is an American couple, and English couple, and an Icelandic couple sitting down for dinner. The man from Iceland hears the American guy say, “Hey sugar, would you like some sugar?” He then hears the English man ask, “Would you like some honey, honey?” The Icelandic man thinks these are pretty clever and wants to say something sweet to his wife. He looks at his wife and asks, “Would you like some milk, cow?” -The End.

We leave the restaurant after making new friends and tell everyone we are headed to the bar. We don’t have to be specific because I think there is only one that is open in this small town. We walk into Húsid and I recognize our singing friend (Úlfur: AKA Wolfman) from the liquor store. I start to make some small talk and find out they had attended a Nordic Wake of a good family member and friend from the community.

The next thing I know, our new friend joins us at our table. As the night goes on, more tables dragged together, and we have half the bar drinking with us. Even our joking host from the fish house (Daniel) shows up and joins us. Michaela is sitting next to a man who immediately claims her as his wife. He then moves on to Kristin but she points to me and says she is already married. Confused, the man points at me and says, “You are married to small man?!” Great… I have a new nickname.

Sandra and Michaela eventually pull a guitar off the wall, because that’s normal, and the songs start. I should have known by the Bonnie Tyler concert in the liquor store, but we find out that Úlfur is an amazing vocalist. His cousin picks up the guitar, and after a day of singing and celebrating a life passed, the duo belts out a rendition of “Leiðin okkar allra.” This is exactly the reason we travel and meet new friends. Sandra also hits the nail on the head when she says, “This is why we drink.” For amazing experiences like this. Preach.

The guitar is passed around and we are serenaded with Icelandic songs and popular tunes from today. Last call arrives and we pile into the street. Looking up we are mesmerized by the faint streams of green whispering across the night sky. Unimpressed, Úlfur takes us to a nearby beach where we can get a better view without the lights of the city. Standing on a rocky beach, I cannot imagine a better end to our Iceland trip than our night in Ísafjörður. I will be coming back. No doubt about it.

As promised, here is the video of our adventures in Iceland. The background song in the video is Wolfman himself (from Ísafjörður), giving our ears a tasty treat.