If you’ve traveled internationally from the states in the past six months, you’ve probably noticed that Iceland has become a common layover for European travel. Because of this, we’re getting to know the ins and outs of the Reykjavik airport quite well, and have been there at least three times since starting our travels. First off, the airport everyone lands at is called Keflavik International Airport, and it is a 45 minute drive from downtown Reykjavik. The easiest way to get to the city is to rent a car. A taxi will run you over $100 and the bus is pricey as well. Once you get downtown, the city buses are more reasonable. On our way to Kansas City for my sister’s wedding, we had around 18 hours to spend in Reykjavik and renting a car gave us the freedom to easily get to our AirBNB and explore some of the city.

Celebrating my sister’s wedding.

Flash forward a couple weeks and we are landing in Iceland once again. I am pumped to continue our adventure and also in need of some calorie-burning activities after all of the family and wedding festivities we attended during our two-week hiatus in Kansas City (see photo of the famous Barb Gessner Peanut Butter Cup below). This time we are meeting our two friends, Sandra and Michaela, and exploring Iceland for one week. We lucked out on this one, because Kristin and I are basically along for the ride. Sandra and Michaela booked most of our lodging and have already plotted out our stops. Thanks gals!

Can’t stop, won’t stop

We find our crew lounging by the exit, and head toward the rental car counter. We make a quick stop at the Duty Free to pick up a bottle of wine and a six pack. This is where you get your first Iceland tip. If you are planning on purchasing any alcohol for consumption, buy it all at the airport. Think you’ll drink 10 bottles of wine when you are traveling the Ring Road? Then buy 10 bottles of wine at the airport. In Iceland the liquor stores (Vinbúdin) are government run and there is a 100% tax mark up. This means your bottle of Jack will cost double once you step out into the real Iceland. Don’t be fooled by grocery store beer either. Icelandic grocery stores can only sell 2.25% beer.

This vinbúdin had the best hours. Some we passed were only open 2 hours a day.

Michaela snags the keys to our rental car, plus an upgrade, and we waltz up to our Mitsubishi L200, “the ultimate hard working pickup.” This truck is perfect. It allows us to keep all our bags and groceries in the covered and locked bed, giving us more than enough space in the cab. It is a cold, rainy, and windy day. The wind is no joke in Iceland. You’re clearly warned at the car rental desk to park a certain way, so your doors don’t get blown off. We hop in the truck and put in the Blue Lagoon as our first stop.

This gal got a little dirty along the way.

The runoff water from the Blue Lagoon

Blue Lagoon is one of Iceland’s most visited attractions. The milky blue water is said to have special healing powers and is heated to over 102 degrees Fahrenheit by geothermal energy. The majority of Iceland’s energy needs are acquired from geothermal sources. When you check in to the lagoon, you get a plastic wrist band. This wrist band connects to a locker where you can place all your belongings. It is also mandatory that you shower before entering the water. Another tip is to leave conditioner in you hair. I have heard the silica and sulfur can cause some major damage. Don’t ask me how the water kills your hair but heals the skin at the same time. I am not a Blue Lagoon-ologist.

We are one with the mud mask clan.

Walking out to the lagoon is wild. Steam is rolling off the water and people apparate in front of you, faces covered in a white silica mud mask. The cost of admission includes a mud mask and a beverage, so we of course find the mask station and become one with the mud mask nation. While roaming the lagoon, we get our first true experience of Icelandic weather. As locals say, “if you don’t like Iceland’s weather, wait 5 minutes.” I know many places have the same saying, but I assure you it applies to Iceland. While my body bathes in the 102 degree healing water, my head soaks in the sun, then the wind whips, the cold hits, followed by rain, and back to calm.

Braving the rain in the Blue Lagoon

My favorite part of the lagoon is the lifeguards. It took me a minute to figure out who these guys are wandering around outside. They are decked out in full winter gear patrolling the edge of the lagoon. We are talking hat, coat, winter pants, gloves, scarf… everything. I mean, do they jump in with a parka on to save someone? I guess that could work… the water is only 4 feet deep. We leave the blue lagoon, warmed to the bone, and head back towards Reykjavik where we are staying the night.

Blue Lagoon Lifeguard

Neil’s guide to the Golden Circle

The next morning we hop in the truck for an action packed day touring the Golden Circle. This popular 300 km loop features geysers, crater lakes, and waterfalls (foss). We also download a free audioguide (Locatify Smartguide) to give us more history and background on the area. Neil McMahon (our audio guide) comes through in the clutch, pointing out little facts and tidbits as we drive along the popular tourist route. Neil even takes us off the beaten path to a little church. We follow his directions, get out of the truck, and walk down a dirt road towards a stream. We end up at the 11th century grave of a troll named Bergþór who lived in Bláfell.

Here rests a huge troll.

Iceland history is full of stories involving elves, trolls, and giants. Bergþór was a good natured troll who lived with his wife Hrefna (also a large troll). When Christianity came around in Iceland, a church was built in the area. Even though trolls were heathens, Bergþór fell in love with the chiming bells. Hrefna on the other hand, said no thanks to Christianity, and moved further in to the mountains, while Bergþór stayed. Bye Felicia.

Bergþór was growing old and one day told the priest he wanted to be buried next to the church so he could always hear the church bells toll and the bubbling sound of the nearby river. The priest agreed and Bergþór said he would reward him generously. A day came when Bergþór’s walking stick was lying next to the church door. This was the sign that Bergþór had passed. A group of men went to the mountain to collect his body, but they found nothing of value in his cave. One man did find a pot with dry leaves and stuffed them in his mittens. On the way back the man noticed that his mittens were getting heavier, and looking inside he saw the leaves had turned to gold. The group of men hurried back to the mountain cave, but the cave was nowhere to be found and hasn’t been ever since.

Most likely the size of a troll head.

I’ll try and keep the troll/giant/elf stories to a minimum. It’s just that everything in Iceland has an interesting tale behind it. Don’t get me started on how elves want to break your legs.

Þingvellir (pronounced Thingvellir) National Park gives us our first major waterfall experience. We hike down a path and through a small canyon. For any of you Game Of Thrones fans, imagine making the trek to The Eyrie, which is the principal stronghold for the House Arryn. Well, wouldn’t you know, this is exactly where those scenes are filmed! A lot of GOT action in Iceland. Anyway, we follow the sounds of thundering waters and end up in front of Öxaráfoss. I’m not trying to downplay any of the waterfalls we have seen so far on our trip, but Iceland is a step above the rest. And this is just our first waterfall!

The mist from Öxaráfoss off in the distance

Öxaráfoss. Just wait until you see Sandra’s drone footage. It’ll blow your mind.

Haukadalur Valley comes up next on the horizon. Geothermal activity in this area dates back to 1298 A.D. and this is home to THE original geyser. That’s right, the O.G. Although in a period of inactivity, Geysir is the first geyser described in printed material and the first known among modern Europeans. No worries though because Strokkur is just next door and hurls boiling water in the air every 5-10 minutes. Scared the crap out of me when I was trying to take this video.

Driving around Iceland, the terrain can change in the blink of an eye. We are constantly comparing the landscape to movies, shows, and even other planets. Every 15 minutes, someone in the car turns and let’s out a loud, “Oooooohhhh, check that out!” Distracting for the driver? Maybe, but we just can’t help it. I get excited about it just typing these words.

Gullfoss is our next “Oooooohhhh, check that out!” moment, and like every place we stop there is some very interesting history behind the falls. They almost do not exist today because of some greedy Norwegian businessmen, a case of vodka, and a farmer with a weakness for booze. Luckily, this farmer had a badass daughter named Sigriður, and she is credited with saving Gulfoss. Thanks Sigriður.

Just a little excited about Gullfoss.

Tomatoes are not what comes to mind when I think of Iceland, but they are the reason for our next destination. Friðheimar is a greenhouse that predominantly grows tomatoes all year round. When we arrive, the place is full, but luckily we snag a spot at the bar and order tomato soup and tomato beer. I am not a big fan of tomato soup, but it is safe to say that this was the best tomato soup I have ever tasted. The beer was also nice, because there was not an overwhelming tomato taste. If there is a restaurant you want to visit in Iceland, make a reservation. This almost came back to bite us a few times. You think a place isn’t busy until a tour bus piles in with a reservation, then every table is full.

At the Friðheimar bar, We meet a fellow traveler from Canada named Kyla. She is completing a similar route across the country. The gals get a glimpse of a badge while she is paying for her beer and we figure she is a Canadian Mounty. We start seeing her on most of our stops and come to the conclusion she was hired to tail us and make sure we don’t get in any trouble… or were we following her? Who knows? Kyla, if you are reading this, can you confirm that: 1) You are a Canadian cop 2) You were secretly spying on us.

Friðheimar tomato soup and beer. Great combination on a chilly day.

After another off the beaten path church, and a quick coffee stop in Sólheimar, we arrive at Kerid Crater Lake. I don’t think I have mentioned the drone yet, but damn. Sandra has the deployment of the drone down to a science and it takes off in the air for some amazing aerial views. This new perspective of the landscape is breathtaking. We eye the horizon as a quick rainstorm rolls in like clockwork, and we pack up the drone and continue to walk around the caldera of the volcano.

Kerid Crater. Pre-rainstorm.

We underestimated this “quick rainstorm” and it begins dumping. The wind is blowing and Kristin is protecting the backpack from the elements. Knowing that it usually stops within minutes, we weather the rain and continue exploring. In true Icelandic fashion, the clouds open up after a few minutes, and a glorious double rainbow appears before us like we are in some sort of Icelandic skittles commercial. That thing was so close, we could taste it. (I apologize for this cheesy line, but seriously, look at it!)

That’s right, double rainbow at Kerid Crater.

Our Third Day in Iceland

Yes , yes, I realize we are only on day 3. I think I can write a short novel about our week-long adventure. I’ll give you all a break for now. I’m sorry, but I am saving all the killer drone footage for the next post. Kristin is working on the video as we speak. You won’t want to miss it!